The pea coat is one my favorite designs in the entire history of men’s wear. Like many garments we wear today, this distinctly masculine, iconic garment has its roots in the military. Characterized by its dark blue color, broad collar and lapels, six-button double-breasted closure and vertical “slash” pockets, the pea coat was originally worn by European sailors before making its way to the U.S. Navy. Through the 1970s, the original Navy-issue pea coats were made with a densely woven, 30 ounce wool known as “Melton cloth” with a somewhat velvety nap. Nowadays, the pea coats you find at the surplus are made with a typically lighter weave that has a decidedly coarser hand.

Pea_Coat_george_3-4I found my pea coat at a flea market in the fall of 1997. The woman who sold it to me had a rack of them, all original Navy issue, all vintage. To my good fortune, the one in the best condition also happened to fit me beautifully. It was $80.

Aside from its mint condition, its perfect fit and its irresistible price, my coat had something extra special: a vintage with a unique history. Sewn into the coat’s lining is a label from the Clothing Supply Office of the U.S. Navy. The label indicates the coat’s size (38) along with the officer’s name and service number. My coat once belonged to a Naval officer named Charles Way, service number 492-98-21.

Earlier this year, it finally occurred to me to do a little research. After a little poking around, I learned that the Navy stopped issuing service numbers some time in the late 1960s or early 1970s, making this coat at least as old as I am. I eventually found a website called The Navy Log and searched for Charles Way. I found him. Born on January 19, 1940, Seaman Charles C. Way, Jr. was from Enola, PA, and served in the U.S. Navy from June of 1958 to June of 1960. Since the pea coat was probably brand new when it was issued to Mr. Way, it is at least 55 years old.

In the years I’ve had the coat, some buttons have come off (all original and saved) and some seams have come out. I’ve had them all repaired, sometimes more than once. The shell of the coat is in great shape overall, but the lining, however, is starting to show its age with some fraying in a few corners. A less sentimental owner would probably just have the coat re-lined. But here’s the thing: in addition to the irreplaceable sewn-in label from the Navy’s Clothing Supply Office, Mr. Way actually hand-wrote his name in the lining with some kind of marker: “Charley Way.” It might seem weird to some people, but the idea of getting rid of it strikes me as disrespectful. So I keep it, just how Charley Way left it.

Based on his years served, Mr. Way likely didn’t see any action. But I can’t help but wonder where this coat was worn. On a ship in exotic (but cold) locations? On what ship? The USS Intrepid, the famous aircraft carrier that is now a sea/air/space museum docked in the Hudson River at the end of my block in midtown Manhattan, alternated deployments along the Atlantic coast of the U.S. from 1958 to 1961. Maybe he served on it. As I said, I can only wonder. And do a little more poking around.

If Charley is still around, he’d be 73 now. After a further web search, I found a profile for Charles C. Way on LinkedIn. The public profile of this Charles C. Way indicated that he retired from Penn State University in 2007. If this is my Charley, he would have been 67 at the time of his retirement. Since many men of that generation, like my own father, built lives and careers close to their childhood home, it would make sense. So I sent him a message on LinkedIn, introducing myself and briefly explaining the story of the pea coat. If he ever responds and if he is, indeed, the Charles C. Way who originally owned the coat, it will make a great follow-up to this story. I’ll keep you posted.

Because of all this, because of how beautifully it was designed, because of how well it was made, because of how good it feels to wear it, because it still keeps me warm, because of its history, and because I just might make a connection with the U.S. Navy seaman who originally owned it from 1958 to 1960, this vintage $80 pea coat just might be the most valuable garment I own.


  1. Rashid Hille

    Thanks for this George! I have an original issue pea as well and I just love the heavy wool and cord-lined pockets. The #1 winter garment to have. Cheers, RH

    • George

      Ah, yes! Those beautiful corduroy-lined pockets! I’m so used to them that I took them for granted and neglected to mention them. Thanks, Rashid!

  2. Great, fascinating story! Hope you can learn more about the coat’s Navy adventures it went through.

  3. Jerome Joseph Gentes

    Great piece, George. Eager to hear the follow-up.

  4. Rockfish

    I remember a fantastic ode to the pea coat in the J Peterman catalog ca late 80s or early 90s.

  5. George, a great garment and a great story..
    I hope the correct Charles does reply I look forward to hearing any updates.

    Lately, I am really looking for one.
    Wish I owned an original. I am still looking for a perfect condition 1960s one in size 42 or 44 complete with label like yours.

    Very best wishes.

  6. This is a great story. Looking forward to a follow up
    The coat looks great. I have a vintage pea coat but I notice the shoulders are a bit wide while the body fits well
    Do others have this issue?
    What is a proper fit for a vintage pea coat?

  7. Thanks to your article, I have purchased the pea coat of a Mr. Bogard.
    I eagerly await its arrival! I am also scouring records to see if I can find Mr. Bogard’s history in the USN.

    I had been hesitant on ordering a surplus coat as I had incorrectly assumed they’d be shaped like a tent, but seeing the fit of yours, my concerns were completely mitigated.

    With the history of the coat, and the look, I imagine I will be far happier with it than had I spent $695 on a Billy Reid Coat, or $300 on a Sterlingwear.

    For everyone’s info, I’m in Canada, and paid just shy of $100 delivered.

    • George

      Brian, that is awesome. And I totally understand the allure of a Billy Reid coat… they’re stunning. But I’m thrilled I could help you make a choice you feel good about. Let me know when it arrives, how it fits and, most importantly, how it makes you feel.

      Well done.

  8. All the pea coats on the racks of stores today are so wide, they make a shorter guy like me look squat(er). This one is keeps it thin, probably because of the era. I’ll have to keep an eye out for one of these.

  9. Rudy Ong

    Hi George,
    i am facinated with the journey you had with “Charles Way” (coat). It fits you perfectly nice and really looks great. Will appreciate if you could share to me info on the manufacturer or supplier of “Charles Way” as i’d like to have one for myself for my 60th year.
    Thank you.

  10. Pingback: The best American men's lifestyle blogs 2018 | Samuel Windsor

  11. This article was a godsend. I was looking for Pea Coats everywhere on designer websites and seeing most of them in the 1000 dollar and up range, and they weren’t the style I wanted. After reading this I was able to get a 42XL Navy Pea Coat in fabulous condition for just over 100 dollars, and it is phenomenal. Made here in America, 100% wool and not some mix of fabrics like some designers were using and overcharging for, and best of all it fit just like I wanted. When I clicked on the picture of this coat and got to this article I was expecting to find a link to a super expensive Pea Coat, what I found was the best advice for buying a Pea Coat ever.

  12. Hi George, great article and fantastic looking coat. Fits you perfect. I have a question, though: Say for some reason this coat was no longer in your possession, and you absolutely had to have another coat that was as similar to this one as possible, which pea coat would you buy of the ones that are available today?

  13. George! I’m here on this post “of a certain age” (shhh) thanks to your recent Instagram Morning Walk where you talked about pea coats, including, natch, this specific one. I am thrilled to the gills that you honored it the way you did, by not replacing the lining because Mr. Way had marked his name inside. And oh, the original label/tag! What a find. I chortled mightily, by the way, at your mention of J. Peterman, because I used to spend an inordinate amount of time in my early twenties-ish scouring that booklet/catalogue and flailing over the illustrations, and, of course, the briliant copy that amused the hell out of me as I was wedged in the blue denim beanbag chair in my super groovy bedroom.

    Most of my wardrobe is ’60s and ’70s vintage, and some of the pieces have markings inside that indicate the identity of a past wearer, and I gasp with delight every time I come across that sort of thing, just like I do the ILGWU label found in the seams of a great deal of my stuff. I wonder what stories the clothing could tell me, about where it’s been, who wore it, and what that dame must’ve been like.

    A friend of mine had a grandmother named Gertrude Spankus (!!!). She was a Texas socialite in the ’60s with a penchange for Neiman-Marcus (shocking). When Ms. Spankus left this world, my friend came across quite a few pieces of her wardrobe and asked if I wanted them since, and I paraphrase, “You’re the only person I know who would want to wear it and the only person it would fit.” I couldn’t pass up that sort of offer, could I? Of course not. Some of the stuff just isn’t wearable, but the pieces that are give me such enormous joy to wear, and I feel like tiny Gertrude Spankus is along for the ride, enjoying the hell out of strutting with me in New York City.

    Sorry for the ramble, but … hey, consider this my Morning Walk.

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