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Joseph Abboud Won New York Men’s Fashion Week FW16

Apparently, it’s been about 15 years since Joseph Abboud showed a collection on the runway. His name hasn’t really come up on my radar in a long time, except when I’ve seen his name in collaboration with Men’s Wearhouse in ads on the sides of city buses.

In the second season of the resuscitated New York Men’s Fashion Week that took place in the first week of February, Abboud not only popped back up on the grid, he won. His brutally elegant Fall/Winter 2016 collection was filthy with rich fabrics and textures cut into classically British tailored silhouettes with an American flair. Wools, tweeds, velvets. And he really punched up the accessories with a decidedly masculine flourish. “Rugged dandyism,” he called it. And the healthy-looking, well-fed, full-grown models were part of the statement: no hairless, prepubescent waifs, and yet no overly-bearded hipsters, either. This was no bro collection. This was a fantastic collection of clothes for real men.

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The Exciting Prospect of American Woolen Company

If you have a suit that was made in America, chances are that it was not entirely made in America, since the fabric was most likely produced somewhere else, like Italy. Last week, I attended a launch party celebrating a company that hopes to change that.

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A Good Dress Belt from Denura

Who doesn’t need a simple, handsome, well-made and affordable dress belt? Although most of my suits are custom made without belt loops, I do have a couple of cotton summer suits that require a good dress belt. There are also those more casual situations with dress pants or dark jeans when I need a good dress belt to coordinate with my oxfords or chukka boots.

There are countless options for good dress belts, but I prefer the simplest, most understated, most elegent options for the most reasonable cost. Finding a belt at a reasonable cost is difficult, especially if you’re after a designer brand. The solution to this is usually to use a replica, like this high-quality fake Gucci belt, that will come at a very low price compared to the real one whilst still looking almost identical to the full-priced belt. Having said that, designer isn’t always something that people look for in a belt; I was convinced for a long time that J.Crew struck the best balance of quality, elegance and price with very handsome belts for $68. Recently, however, I came across a British company called Denura.

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How to Fold a Pocket Square from The Epoch Man

Del Singh, the founder of The Epoch Man blog (and fellow native Clevelander), sent me this terrific and simple how-to graphic demonstrating different ways to fold a pocket square. I had to share.

I don’t always wear a pocket square. When I do, I go with the “Straight Fold.” But there’s something in this nicely-executed guide for just about any preference. Enjoy!

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Handsome Gems from The Tie Bar’s January Collection

I subscribe to the email lists of all the brands I like. Most of the time I delete them after a cursory glance since I don’t really need anything. But when there is a worthwhile sale or something new, I’ll investigate.

Such an investigation happened this morning with an email from The Tie Bar, which touted their new January offerings. I found a few ties that just might make it into my rotation…

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The Basics: Shoes

I recently had a great lunch meeting with a friend who wanted to overhaul his wardrobe from the ground up. He had picked up on what I was doing, and wanted to get into a tailored look with custom suits, classic dress shirts and good shoes. To start, he wanted to keep things very simple and then expand his sartorial horizons once he got his sea legs. I was extremely flattered that he saw me as a good source for counsel. Not only was I happy to help, but I saw this as a personal opportunity to refresh my perspective on solid foundational essentials, dialing it back to the very basics.

In today’s men’s wear culture, it’s so easy to get caught up in what’s hot and so very right now while ignoring the ever-important basics. One might have the wardrobe to look super fantastic in a nightclub, at a fashion show, at Pitti Uomo or at a selvedge denim flea market packed with bearded bros, but put some of those guys at a wedding, an important business meeting or at the occasional black tie affair and they often look like they’re in the wrong room. At funerals, such sartorial illiteracy even looks disrespectful. It’s like having a collection of unique ornaments, glittering tinsel garland and flashing lights but no tree. It goes back to having the basics, which starts with shoes.

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An Elegant Dress Watch from Oliver Hemming

I recently became acquainted with the work of Oliver Hemming, an award-winning designer/maker of very distinctive clocks and watches. From London, Hemming originally worked for private commissions but now has his own unusual collection available on his website (oliverhemming.com). Working with his own team and his own factory in Hong Kong, he succeeds in balancing detail, quality and affordability.

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Fantasy Rebrand: Indochino

I should start by saying that I was a happy Indochino customer for years. They enabled me to afford some of the best-fitting suits I’ve ever worn and suits that rival far more expensive premium brands. I get compliments every single time I wear one of their suits or jackets.

This “fantasy rebrand” is an effort to raise the bar for the first company to put made-to-measure into the hands of men who – until Indochino – could never afford it. I think Indochino is great, but I think it could be amazing. The challenge is to elevate the brand from an entry-level “first suit” brand into a bigger league among heavier players – something that would also be attractive to a more seasoned and sophisticated suit buyer.

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Sponsored: Handy Tie & Sock Sets from ShirtCycle

I’ve written before about uniforms of powerful men – men who don’t have the time to figure out which tie goes with which suit, shirt or pair of socks. President Obama got rid of all of his suits except the navy and gray ones (and that tan one) because it meant one less decision in a day filled with far more important decisions. Extremely busy men who pull serious power levers in their lives need to be able to reach into their closets blindfolded, not screw up and be dressed and out the door before many men have decided on a pocket square. As someone who really doesn’t like to belabor the what-goes-with-what process, I really appreciate such efficiency.

For busy men who like a little color and flair with the daily suit and tie, my friends at ShirtCycle have created a smart solution. To supplement their handy and well-executed custom shirt subscription service (my review here), ShirtCycle has added coordinating ties and socks to their offerings.

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