How To Make a Savile Row Suit
I've always loved tailored clothing, which means this two-part video from MoMA and iconic Savile Row tailoring house Anderson & Sheppard is basically porn to me.
I've always loved tailored clothing, which means this two-part video from MoMA and iconic Savile Row tailoring house Anderson & Sheppard is basically porn to me.
My prescribed sartorial on-camera upgrade for podcast host, writer, professor, emergent prince of all media and my future ex-boyfriend, Scott Galloway.
Online custom suits can be a daunting and confounding prospect. In this episode, I talk about my own experiences with it.
I jumped back onto the saddle this week after a brief but fantastic trip to Palm Beach, Florida last weekend. I have a client down there who showed me the ropes in their little universe both in Palm Beach and in the charming town of Lake Worth.
The cooler and edgier bros of the moment have been embracing all kinds of remixes and twists with classic tailoring. The suit has moved on, yo. It’s all about being short, brief, casual. A hyper-softening and casualization of the suit is in full swing, moving it closer to comfy and approachable athleisure. Slouchy, even.
According to the so-very-right-now, the classic tailored suit as you’ve known it is dead, bro. Or at least that’s the vibration on the street and the interwebs.
It’s a good bet that a lot of American men get their cues about wearing suits from television. Unfortunately, most TV personalities wear their suits poorly, spreading bad information to the masses.
Left to their own devices, male on-camera personalities would likely make even bigger sartorial mistakes than they already do. It’s not totally their fault. Their main job is to be informed, intelligent, engaging and entertaining, which is a genuinely difficult full-time job. Other than a few hosts who actually have a sense of style and a knowledge of what to wear and how to wear it, these men need help. To get dressed appropriately and look right, they retain the services of a stylist, designer or dresser whose job can range from advising and consulting to an all-out dictation of what otherwise clueless talent should wear. This is where the problem lives.
I don’t know what you call it. I tried Googling things like “reinforcement fabric pants hem,” but no dice. All I know is that there is an extra strip of “reinforcement” fabric inside the rear hem of the pants of one of my custom suits. It’s obviously designed to prevent any destructive scuffing and chafing that can occur from the back of my shoes rubbing up against the inside of my pants. It’s subtle and completely invisible from the outside. Whatever this feature is called, I like it.
Of all the stories I’ve heard and read about master tailors around the world, Martin Greenfield’s is perhaps my favorite. As the only survivor of his immediate family, all killed in a Nazi concentration camp, he came to America in 1947 and built a life from nothing. But not just any life.
What Joan Rivers did for comedy Kathryn Sargent seems to be doing for bespoke tailoring in a decidedly male-dominated universe. A few weeks ago, the 41-year-old master tailor became the first woman to open her own eponymous bespoke shop on Savile Row. While women have been behind the scenes for a long time as cutters, finishers, and the like, Sargent is breaking new ground, cracking what she calls the “windowpane check ceiling” of Savile Row’s boys’ club.
A t-shirt is great, but not every man fills one like Marlon Brando or Chris Evans. Jeans are perhaps the most democratic garment in all of menswear, worn by everyone from the 1% to real people, but not every man looks great in them, no matter how expensive they are. But in a well-tailored suit, every man looks his best.