The Topcoat

Though the terms are often incorrectly interchanged or confused, topcoats and overcoats basically serve the same purpose: to provide an elegant outer layer of warmth for the urbane gentleman when he’s wearing a suit or jacket (or not). The two coats are similar in many ways, especially from the waist up where they have a design and structure that resembles a jacket or blazer. Their shell is usually a fine wool, cashmere or a blend thereof. Where they differ mostly is in the length. Overcoats extend below the knee, and topcoats hit above the knee.

My preference has always been the topcoat. It’s an essential piece in my fall/winter rotation. While the overcoat technically provides more warmth since it literally covers more of the body, I find the topcoat to be lighter, less cumbersome and better for travel. It also manages to provide all the warmth where it really counts. And the shorter length has a slightly less formal or aristocratic look to me, which makes a topcoat a really versatile garment that can appropriately complement dressier suit and tie situations and nicely punch up a t-shirt and a pair of jeans.

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A New Pair of Affordable, Stylish and Grown-Up Shoes from Jack Erwin

The group of “New Disrupters” in the menswear game offering affordable solutions without the middleman is large. Once these brands establish their ability to deliver goods at a reasonable cost, what separates the men from the boys is a certain intangible and unquantifiable thing called taste. The new disrupters who actually have a level of refined taste that puts them on par with more established influential brands is a much smaller group. Ideally, the taste level filters through all levels of the brand experience, from the design and presentation of the actual merchandise to the logo and slogans to the execution of the website, which had better give first (not last) consideration to smartphone and tablet users. Jack Erwin is among this group.

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Shinola, the Ultimate Watch for an American President

Yesterday, The New York Times ran a piece in the Style section about the disappearance of the political “power watch” – a watch that seemed to really suit a world leader. Dwight D. Eisenhower wore a Rolex, Franklin D. Roosevelt wore a Movado, John F. Kennedy had a Cartier and an Omega, and Lyndon B. Johnson had a collection that included a Patek Philippe, a Vulcain Cricket, a LeCoultre and a Rolex.

Such displays by an elected official in today’s America, where absolutely everything is scrutinized, would be criticized as un-American, out-of-step with the average working man or too flashy. Even if a candidate or elected official is well known to be wealthy, like Mitt Romney, George Bush or Bill Clinton, he is expected to play it down to something with which his constituents can identify, especially in times of great economic inequality.

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A Subtle Sartorial Halloween Flourish

Through my early thirties, I would get really into Halloween. I’ve been a vampire, a zombie, a mummy, Mr. Spock, a Hooters waitress and, yes, a bloodied Drew Barrymore from Scream (complete with a cordless phone in one hand, Jiffy Pop in the other, and a knife in my chest). I even once had a pair of black contact lenses that just covered the iris, which were wonderfully and eerily off-putting at parties. When I went out, I went all out, as one should when you want to do it right.

As I ease into my mid-forties, I’ve toned it down considerably. Since Halloween and its ghostly, ghoulish splendor remains one of my favorite holidays on the American calendar, I still enjoy a little sartorial flourish to celebrate All Hallows’ Eve.

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The Importance of Cedar Shoe Trees

You cannot underestimate the importance of shoes. They say a lot about us. And it’s not about expensive shoes versus inexpensive ones. It’s about well-chosen shoes that are well-tended. I apply the same degree of care to my Florsheims as I apply to my Aldens.

In addition to regular leather conditioning and shine, and maintenance and protection of the soles with taps, I also preserve the appearance and longevity of my shoes with cedar shoe trees.

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My Cordovan Chukka Boots from Alden

With many things pertaining to smarter modes in menswear, I’m often late to the party. I didn’t fully understand the pleasure (or importance) of a well-tailored suit or what went into a well-made shoe until my late 30s. When I “discovered” things like Warby Parker, J.Crew’s Ludlow suits, Kamakura or The Tie Bar, I learned that other smartasses in the menswear ether had known about them for years. I don’t claim to be inventing any wheels here, and I will never pretend to be an expert. We get there when we get there.

Another party to which I arrived late is Alden. To be clear, I’ve certainly been aware of Alden and their gold standard in American shoe and boot making for a long time. In fact, I’ve been coveting a pair of Alden’s cordovan chukka boots for several years. My new arrival to the Alden party comes in the form of actually owning a pair.

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