Gray Twill suit

Throughout my earlier and less-astute years, I wore belts with my suit trousers. Most suit trousers come with belt loops after all, and Glenn O’Brien has said that wearing looped trousers without a belt makes the belt loops look lonely. I agree. If there are belt loops on the trousers, wear a belt. But then there’s another option for suit trousers: no belt loops with side tabs and, hence, no belt.

The last two suits I got were made-to-measure. After observing some exquisitely tailored men in photographs, in films and in person over the last few years, I noticed that many of them opted for trousers without belt loops, often featuring side tabs. On those last two custom suits I got, I took the no-belt plunge. And I’m liking it… a lot.

Yes, I think every man should have at least one black and one brown dress belt. Something simple and elegant. But at the end of the day, I don’t technically need a belt. It’s a functionless accessory, really, like a tie or pocket square, worn solely for decoration. But ties and pocket squares own their frivolity and don’t pretend to be anything but decorative. (And if I ever need a belt to actually hold up my pants, I need a tailor more than I need a belt.) And the sans-belt thing is definitely easier at airport security.

I’ll never go without belts or their loops altogether. But with suits, it’s a different story. I have grown to really appreciate the cleanness of the belt-free look on suits. Without the belt and its loops, there is an elegant fluidity from upper to lower body, a line that is typically broken at the waist by a belt. I see it as a mark of smart tailoring and a surprising freedom from one less accessory to fuss over. It’s a liberating and elegant way to go.

10 Comments

  1. Jerome Gentes

    You deserve a prize for the post’s title alone. Thanks for making it short and succinct, as well!

  2. “Back in the day” there was actually a brand of trousers called Sansabelt [“sans” being French for “without”]..

    • George

      I remember Sans-a-Belts. Popular with golfers.

  3. Well said sir, we spoke about this when I was inquiring about my first suit from Indochino. I think I may try this option on my second suit.

  4. George,

    What’s your opinion about short men and pant cuffs? I’ve read that generally, shorter men should avoid them, but other opinions I’ve heard say that, as long as the suit is proportioned properly, then pant cuffs should be OK. I’m a shorter man on the slimmer to average build, and prefer jackets that are shorter, but not trendy short. The ones I have now just cover my buttocks and have a low button stance.

    Thoughts?

    • George

      Thanks for the comment and question, Lawrence. Personally, I would stay away from cuffs. It’s just another horizontal line, which widens as opposed to lengthens. Stick with tailored, single-breasted suits with trousers without cuffs. I always say that if there is a even a small risk of negative effect, and I have the power to remove that risk altogether, then I will eliminate the risk.

      • Thanks for the insight, George. You look flawless in your suits. Looking forward to more of your posts!

        -LM

  5. George,

    Great post. Where did you get that specific orange pocket square in the picture above?