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The Best-Dressed Men at the 71st Annual Golden Globes

Razors, bow ties and good tailors apparently took a vacation last week, attracting what looked like a small convention of scruffy, well-pressed Tarantino gangsters and pallbearers at this year’s Golden Globes. After enchanting Matt Lauer and then taking Amtrak to Washington, D.C., the Brooklyn hipster caught the red eye to LAX and invaded Hollywood. I just hope the Beverly Hilton Hotel stocked enough craft beer to go with those beards, bro.

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The Talented (and Beautifully Dressed) Mr. Ripley on Netflix

talented_mr_ripley_posterNot only does it take us through an exquisitely photographed tour of 1958 Italy, The Talented Mr. Ripley takes us on a thrilling journey that begins with a borrowed college blazer and boils over into a cunning and deadly game of identity theft.

“I always thought it’d be better to be a fake somebody than a real nobody.”

I actually attended the New York premiere of The Talented Mr. Ripley. Matt, Gwynnie and Jude were there for the glamorous red carpet show and screening at MoMA, but what I remember most was the movie itself. My friend turned to me not even twenty minutes into the film and whispered “I love this movie.” I couldn’t have agreed more, and all of us in the theater seemed to be equally swept away by an incredible story, marvelous performances and gorgeous visuals.

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Wrinkles Happen

A reader asks…

One struggle I have (and an extreme annoyance) is wrinkles I get in my trousers from sitting at my desk or in my car for a period of time. Is there anything that can be done to help this, whether with tailoring or type of wool? Thanks. Tim.

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A Eulogy for the Shrunken Suit

For a long time, I had a theory that the shrunken suit thing was a joke—that Thom Browne had started a movement the same way that L. Ron Hubbard allegedly started Scientology: on a bet to see how many followers he could collect. History tells us that really radical ideas have the power to stick. Coming out of the 1990s, suits had such excess shoulder padding, wide lapels, and excess room in the leg that one could almost cut two Thom Browne suits with all that fabric. The shrunken suit was such a radically different statement that it was almost a hyper-rebellious “fuck you” to suiting as we knew it in the decade prior.

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Icons: Frank Sinatra

Because his music remains among the most popular on the planet. Because he helped desegregate Nevada casinos and hotels in the 1960s. Because he likely influenced a presidential election. Because he was one of the first artists to start his own record label (Reprise). Because he could actually act, winning an Academy Award for Best Supporting Actor in From Here To Eternity in 1953. Because he refused to retire and stayed relevant, even after he officially retired. Because he started the “Duets” album format. Because he offered to “take care of” Woody for Mia. Because he actually had the connections to have Woody taken care of. Because the Empire State Building glowed blue for his 80th birthday. Because he’s the original pop star with a bad attitude. Because he accomplished all of this while maintaing a high standard of style. Because he’s the Chairman of the Fucking Board.

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Ludlow Shoes from J.Crew

The Ludlow Wingtip (in Cigar Brown)
The Ludlow Wingtip (in Cigar Brown)
If you crave a pair of stunning long wingtip or plain toe bluchers from Alden but find the $600 – $700 price tag a little tough right now, fear not. J.Crew has expanded its popular Ludlow line to include a handsome, well made and affordable selection of shoes.

The Ludlow shoes incorporate that English heritage of construction with a nice leather upper, a hefty leather sole with a steel shank and a Goodyear welt. The Ludlow line comes as a plain toe blucher or a long wingtip brogue. Though the shoes aren’t fully made in the U.S.A., many of their components, like the insole, outsole, lining and welt, are harvested on American soil.

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Tom Ford’s Project Upgrade for GQ

Tom Ford recently did a series of style upgrades for eight different British men from different walks of life for GQ Magazine. (Project Upgrade: Tom Ford Edition – GQ) When the guys were still in their “before” stages, Tom asked each of them questions that were unique to their respective situations, but asked all of them one identical question: “Where do you see yourself in ten years?” – reinforcing the adage Dress for the job you want, not for the job you have. The results are striking.

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American Gigolo (1980)

American Gigolo (1980)There is a scene in American Gigolo in which Julian (Richard Gere) takes a little taste of cocaine from his nightstand and turns to his closet and dresser drawers to pick out his clothes. With “The Love I Saw in You Is Just a Mirage” by Smokey Robinson and The Miracles playing on his stereo, he lays out jackets, shirts and ties in various combinations as he carefully considers the evening’s ensemble. It’s immediately obvious that he performs this ritual every time he gets ready to go out. It’s glorious.

American Gigolo is the first movie I can remember that depicted a masculine and reasonably sophisticated male character actively taking care and pride in choosing and wearing his clothes. Maybe the only movie. Written and directed by Paul Schrader and also starring Lauren Hutton, this 1980 noir-ish crime drama is about a successful Los Angeles male escort to older women (Gere) who gets pinned as the prime suspect in the murder of a wealthy client in Palm Springs. His liaisons have entangled him at the crossroads of the dark underworld and those who wield political and financial power, and he gets in over his head. In a role originally offered to (and turned down by) John Travolta, Gere turned his performance as Julian into a defining career move.

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