I break designer collections down to two categories: 1) fashion, designed for spectacle for other people in fashion, people who work in retail, legitimate celebrities and rock stars, or club kids with trust funds; and 2) clothes, designed with restrained elegance for people who live and work in a real world with constraints. I’m interested in the latter.
This past week’s Autumn/Winter 2015 London Collections: Men had a little bit of both, with unremarkable bits in between. As for the real clothes for real people, there were some fantastic pieces. My favorites included inspirations from Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies, Pringle of Scotland, Richard James and Tom Ford.
Without further adieu, here are some photos of what I loved…
Gieves & Hawkes
Hardy Amies
Pringle of Scotland
Richard James
Tom Ford
With respect to the fashion (as opposed to clothes) at AW15 LC:M, I think if you’re going to do it, really go for it. Don’t pussyfoot around with narrower or wider lapels, slightly shorter or longer jackets, or slimmer or looser shirts and pants and pretend you’re reinventing a groundbreaking new silhouette. Anyone with a rear-view mirror can see that it’s all been done. I like it when fashion for the sake of fashion removes all restraint and really goes balls-to-the-wall with really good bad taste, which is why I appreciated Sibling’s AW15 collection. This is a show that would have had me grinning from ear to ear. With an explosion of pink, fuzzy faux fur and giant stuffed animals, it didn’t take itself seriously and had just the right dose of “Fuck You.” My hat is off.
Sibling
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Hey George, do you have recommendations on books that cover good advice on style? I’ve seen a few highly recommended, but not too sure of them. Worthy of a post?
Glenn O’Brien’s “How to Be a Man,” Alan Flusser’s “Dressing the Man” and “Style and the Man” for starters.