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When it comes to food, my palate is versatile, but my tastes are simple. I’ll try almost anything (without meat), but my preferences aren’t complicated. They’re quite simple, actually. And one of my favorite fallback dishes when I’m not in the mood to make a decision is penne or rigatoni with a spicy arrabbiata sauce. 

My affection for this simple and satisfying dish was re-awakened over a lunch last year with my friend Michael McDonnell at the venerable Via Quadronno on East 73rd off Madison Avenue. I hadn’t had breakfast that day, and I was blinded by hunger after a lap through Ralph Lauren’s flagship store at 72nd and Madison. Belaboring the menu at this Upper East Side standby was not in the cards. When Mike said he was thinking about the Rigatoni All’Arrabbiata, I reflexively said, “Same.”

Our bowls of slightly al dente pasta with spicy tomato sauce were perfect. So perfect that I knew I wanted the comfort of this dish more often. Now, whenever I’m on Madison Avenue in the East 70s, feeling peckish, I make it a point to stop into Via Quadronno to indulge. For the home, since pasta is an easy one for this limited chef, I always have boxes of penne and rigatoni on the shelf, along with jars of Rao’s Arrabbiata sauce. When I’m feeling fancy and thinking ahead, I’ll get some fresh parsley and grated parmesan or romano. But even without the cheese and the green, the dish is delicious. 

Lately, in an effort to get more protein, I’ve started using a pasta made with chickpeas instead of flour. A bowl of it packs about 15 grams of protein, as opposed to the 5 grams you might get from traditional pasta. The taste and texture are damn similar and quite good. That’s not to say I don’t love old school pasta, especially in a good Italian eatery. But it is nice to have the option.

Sure, I might hustle up a good arrabbiata recipe to make on my own. That’s for when I’ve got the time, the inclination, and the interest. For now, I’m perfectly happy to boil some penne and heat up a half jar of Rao’s homemade spicy marinara. Simple, nutritious, comforting, and delicious. It makes me very happy.


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