Men’s formalwear doesn’t really change. It’s all about the fit and the tailoring. Designers have tried over the years to put their stamp on old reliable, but it never really sticks. When someone deviates too far into trendyland, he looks like he’s trying too hard. That said, there are a few acceptable variables with a man’s tux, particularly in the jacket collar: peak, shawl or notch. We also have a tiny space for movement in the color. Though one can never ever go wrong with black, at this year’s Golden Globes, George Clooney worked an Armani (his usual) in a terrific blue, and Ricky Gervais went with a handsome tux by Ted Baker in deep scarlet.
This year at the Academy Awards saw a handful turned out in classic handsomeness. No supremely tragic experiments with shirts, ties, colors, whatever. (Though I must say I’m not a fan of a standard necktie with the tux. If it’s not a bow tie, it’s not real formalwear. And winged shirt collars belong on waiters and poker dealers.) One might see my small collection of favorites from this year’s Oscars and think not much. But it’s not about standing out or making a statement. On Oscar night, it’s about old classic Hollywood glamour.
While I loved how each of these guys looked, my absolute favorite was Christopher Plummer, who arrived nicely turned out in a purple velvet dinner jacket. Just far enough outside the box. Marvelous.
All photos by Josh Haner/The New York Times
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