Episode 27: The Power of a Suit

My friend Baylen sent me a short but fascinating article in The Atlantic about the power of wearing a suit. The piece explores recent research about the psychological effect of “formal” clothing, both on the wearer and on those around him. In this episode of the podcast, I talk about how the article articulated and validated much of my own personal experience with a suit’s effect. When I made the decision in my late thirties to start regularly representing myself in suits (both for work and social occasions), things changed – and all for the better.

The operative word? Empowerment.

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My Magic Number with Wool Supers

In certain sub-sects of menswear enthusiasts, there is a serious fetish for an extremely fine type of suit wool with an extraordinarily soft hand. These wools are delineated by what is called an “S” or “Super” number. The higher the S number, the finer the wool.

The number itself refers to the number of times the wool thread is twisted. The more the yarn is twisted, the finer and thinner it gets, yielding a super-soft fabric with an extremely silky feel.

The average wool suit that most men wear is probably made with somewhere between a Super 100s and a Super 120s. Maybe up to a Super 130s on the outside. The ultra soft (and ultra expensive) wools happen at around a Super 150s and can flirt with 200 or higher.

Here’s the thing with the higher numbers, though: While these high Supers are extraordinarily soft, they’re also very delicate, making them very impractical for regular wear. Sit for an hour in a suit made with Super 180s wool, and you’ll be far more wrinkled than someone wearing a Super 110s. Another drawback is that the high Super wools don’t “bounce back” like the lower numbers, which means your suit will need a press or a steam before each wearing.

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Sponsored: Affordable and Stylish Solutions from CombatGent

A reasonable and experienced person would look at a $150 price tag on a suit and see a huge red flag. The fabric must be cheap, the construction has to be horrible, the buttons and lining probably melt near an open flame, and the people actually making the suit are likely grinding out an 18 hour work day with a 10 minute lunch break in an un-airconditioned fire trap in eastern Asia.

I get bludgeoned with emails from startups in the over-saturated menswear world looking for free promotion in the blogosphere. At best, some of these brands might have fine ideas that are poorly executed. At worst, they’re amateur gimmick magicians who wouldn’t get past the first audition for Shark Tank, offering an ill-conceived fix for something that was never broken just to make a buck. Then there is the rare diamond in the ruff, compentently presenting an elegant solution that meets my four criteria, which dictates that the product or service be 1.) handsome, 2.) well-made, 3.) affordable and 4.) workable, i.e. have an actual application in one’s life. Combatant Gentlemen is one of those rare diamonds in the ruff.

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A Twelve Year Old Jacket, Still Working Beautifully

Fashion is an industry that employs a lot of people. It has to move and change its colors at least twice each year in order to sustain itself, which is why we have Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer seasons. (Then there are those extra “Resort” and “Capsule” situations we’re supposed to get excited about now, too.)

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Rare Sartorial Flair in the Power Chair

Members of elite corporate and political power circles are not known for their personal style. Quite the opposite, actually. The titans of industry who make headlines today practice such a rigorously uninspired, frumpy, Normcore anti-glamour that it must disappoint even the most well-paid prostitutes who show up to their suite at the Mandarin Oriental.

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Podcast No. 19: The Anatomy of a Suit

Online custom suit maker Indochino sent out an email detailing the fabric, materials and construction of their suits. Not only were they being very transparent about the construction of their merchandise, but that the email was an obvious response to a growing number of men who are actually interested in this information.

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